Root Down — A Botany X Brewery Nønic Joint

What if I told you there was a plant—very likely growing in your backyard right now—that contains high levels of prebiotic fiber (inulin), calcium, potassium, and magnesium among other nutrients? And that this plant’s roots, stems, leaves, and seeds have significant levels of antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E (and B and K). And that it’s been used for centuries—likely millenia actually—for aiding digestion, detoxifying the liver, treating acne, reducing inflammation, and lowering blood pressure. Oh, and it's even it's even said to be an aphrodisiac.

And then what if I told you, you already know this plant, and you probably loathe it. I wouldn’t blame you if you do. I used to hate burdock, too.

See, burdock’s abundance is due to its design — which actually inspired the invention of Velcro. The plant grows huge leaves that choke sunlight from yards and gardens, and produces familiar burrs. These burrs have one purpose — to be carried somewhere there’s less competition for light and space and moisture. However they tend to be a nuisance to the dogs, gardeners, hikers, farmers, livestock, bearded folk, and clothes-wearers around the globe that carry them unwittingly in their quest for fertile ground.

Great Burdock’s familiar seed delivery system. // Photo by manfredrichter // Pixabay

So what made me change my tune about the usefulness of this ubiquitous, but undervalued plant? Turns out it’s #*@%ing delicious.

I didn’t know it, but I had actually already been consuming burdock in some of my favorite foods. Burdock root is a classic ingredient in many Asian countries, including China, Japan and Korea. In Japanese cuisine, it’s used as a traditional ingredient in many dishes, including ramen. I knew I liked “gobo”; I just didn’t know “gobo” was burdock until I dug deeper into burdock research over the past few weeks. It’s also in a couple of tasty tea blends I happened to have in my house.

Know what else it tastes really good in? Beer.

Crafting Collaboration

Burdorks, Joseph Alton (left), Botany BrewFarm, Ryan Verdon (right), brewery nønic at Botany BrewFarm.

I knew from my first visit to brewery nønic that I’d love to collaborate with Ryan Verdon (head brewer/owner) and his team. They’re serving up on some tasty craft beers and really good vibes at their charming Menomonie, WI, brewery/taproom, situated in a restored train depot. I couldn’t have been more pleased when Ryan accepted my request to brew with him and brewer, Levi Gilbert, as I work to get the BrewFarm back up and brewing.

When it came to decide what to brew, I suggested we make what will eventually be one of Botany BrewFarm’s flagship beers — a traditional, low-alcohol, dark mild ale. I wanted an easy-drinking, medium- to light-bodied beer with a well-balanced malt character that can be enjoyed year round.

Ryan and Levi were down, so a mild ale it was. But here’s the thing about mild ales. They’re the kind of beers that brewers love to brew and drink, and a style that nønic knocks out of the park, but they’re still overlooked by many a craft beer consumer. "So," I thought, "how can we make our mild ale a little more interesting?" That’s when Brett asked, “Is there anything in that Botany of Beer book that’s growing at the BrewFarm right now?”

It was early May, so even the perennial BrewFarm offerings like rhubarb weren’t going to be ready for brewday. Then I remembered the first green thing I had seen growing through the lingering April snow. “Let me see what it says about burdock,” I said, flipping to page 68. “Yeah, man. It says we can use the roots and flowers for brewing.” Not only did the book say that burdock was a totally viable beer ingredient, it also made reference to a brewery in Ava, IL, that had used burdock in a few different beer recipes in recent years.

“We love it,” Marika Josephson, owner and brewer of Scratch Brewing Company, replied to our email asking for tips, “it’s a great addition to beer.”

“We've generally used burdock by roasting it in the oven first until it gets almost chocolate colored. It makes an amazing coffee (I liken it to espresso) and we've added it to beer like that, generally in darker colored beers. I would not hesitate to put it in beer fresh without roasting, though.”

That was it. We were definitely making a burdock mild ale.

With the help of Brewer Brett, I harvested some test batches of burdock, and he and I sat around my kitchen chewing on different parts of the raw plant, making teas with different extraction temperatures, and generally bemusing my dad and brother who were visiting the BrewFarm for the day.

The following week, with the help of Ryan from nønic, I harvested a few hundred burdock roots from the BrewFarm and spent the next couple days trying several different methods of processing the plant. I peeled some and soaked it in an ice bath. I dehydrated some. And I chopped and roasted a bunch.

I liked the flavor of the fresh, raw root, and both Brett and Ryan agreed it almost had some of the same characteristics as grassier hops, in addition to what I described as an “earthier, milder carrot” taste, which Brett said “almost reminded [him] of Juicy Fruit gum.” The roasted burdock root was the star of the show, though. The Maillard reaction from roasting the root gave the burdock a rich, earthy, slightly sweet, toasted barley-like flavor. My house smelled like it would if I were making granola at home.

A couple of weeks ago, I brought a few pounds of raw root and about 25 chopped and roasted burdock roots to the brewery for brewday, expecting the nønic guys would probably want to play it safe and sprinkle in a little here and there — enough so we could call it a “burdock beer.” But I wanted to be prepared to make burdock a significant part of the recipe, if we were so inspired.

Brett and I were standing over the raw and roasted burdock laid out in the brewery, both of us feeling some trepidation about brewing with this new ingredient on a commercial scale. “I dunno,” I deflect, “what do you think, B?” Levi, walking by with a bin full of grain for the mash, paused when he heard my question, looked down at the bounty of burdock, and casually pronounced. “Let’s use it all,” and proceeded toward the mashtun. Brett and I met eyes and smiled. A proper burdock ale it is.

We added the roasted burdock root to the mash, and then about two and a half pounds of raw, smashed root to the end of the boil. The result is Root Down, a 4.3% mild ale that I think perfectly showcases the earthy, toasty, roasted burdock.

The nature of this collaboration is perfectly in line with the spirit of Botany BrewFarm. One of the things I love most about the craft beer community is the level of cooperation and kindness that breweries share with each other. Creativity flows when you’re working with fellow beer folks to feature a new ingredient or celebrate a milestone. Besides maybe the music business, I can’t think of another commercial community that comes close to being as supportive of their fellow industry folks as craft breweries are.

So, thank you to nønic for welcoming us into the western Wisconsin craft beer community with open arms. We’re honored to have partnered with such a well respected, community-minded craft brewery for our first Wisco collab.

Ryan (nønic), Joseph (Botany), Levi (nønic), Brett (Rush River/Botany)

When can you try ROOT DOWN for yourself?

On Friday, June 16, 2023 — we’re hosting a release party at brewery nønic. We’ll tap the beer at 3:00pm, and the Botany brewcrew with be hanging out at nønic all night, grooving to the live funky/jazzy vibes of local musicians, FunkKnot.

More details on brewery nønic’s Facebook Page.